Popular dry lining techniques There are various ways to fix plasterboard to a wall. Here are the most popular dry lining techniques used both by professional plasterers and DIY dry lining enthusiasts. Dot and Dab: This is one of the most popular dry lining techniques, as it’s less messy and sets more quickly. Basically, the way it works is that dabs of adhesive are placed along the wall as a method of attaching the plasterboard. Tacking: This is when nails are used to attach plasterboard to metal or timber walls. Screwing: Usually, screws are better for attaching plasterboard than nails and when screws are used the process is called screwing.

Dry Lining Tools and Equipment Before embarking on any dry lining project, good preparation is always the key. This means ensuring you have all the tools and materials to complete the job successfully with minimum fuss. The range of materials involved in dry lining is vast, but fortunately the tools you’ll need to complete a dry lining project are relatively simple. Most tools you will already have in your tool box, but some are designed specifically to work with plasterboard or metal framework. General Tools These tools you should have anyway, because they will be required in all construction projects whether it’s commercial or DIY. Tape measure: A tape measure is essential because you will be measuring and cutting various materials throughout your project. Even if you have a laser measuring device to measure surface areas, you will still need a handy tape measure for making cuts throughout the installation process. Pencil: A pencil is a key tool for any carpenter or dry liner. This goes hand in hand with your tape measure, and you will be frequently marking lines on boards, tiles and timber to make your cuts. Utility knife: A sharp utility knife is useful for multiple jobs and is often used for cutting both plasterboard and ceiling tiles. Plasterboard is a versatile material, so it does not require much effort to work with or shape. A good quality utility knife will help you to easily cut precise shapes or to tackle board edges more easily. Saw: There will be many situations when a utility knife is not strong or accurate enough. For this reason a good quality saw should be an essential part of your kit. A jab saw is also a handy tool which can be used for stabbing through a board to make a hole for light sockets, plugs and other obstructions. Hammer: A hammer is usually the first thing added to any tool kit and is useful for a wide range of purposes. Spirit Level: Having everything exactly level is essential in any type of construction, and especially dry lining. Whether it’s a ceiling or a wall, you will need a spirit level to ensure your fixings and frame are perfectly level. You can use other types of level such as a ‘water level kit’, which has a large pipe filled with water that can extend across much bigger areas. Drill/ Screw gun: A good quality drill is the number one essential tool for all dry liners. Often, you can switch drill bits and use the drill as a screw gun as well, saving time on all the screwing involved with fixing frames and boards into place. Step ladder: A step ladder is of course another essential item you’ll need when carrying out any dry lining project, whether it’s for walls or ceilings. Workbench and Trestles: A work bench is an essential item to ensure an organised work space. You can use two benches, or trestles and place your plasterboard at a convenient height ready for measuring and cutting. Mask: Cutting and working with plasterboard or ceiling tiles can often create gypsum dust and other fibres in the air, so a mask to protect your lungs is always a good idea, and sometimes can be a legal requirement. Dry Lining Specific Tools These tools are more specific to dry lining and are essential for working with plasterboard or suspended ceilings. Stud finder: A stud finder is an incredibly useful tool and a requirement when fixing heavy items to walls, or avoiding drilling into pipework. Plasterboard Support/Dead man: A dead man is a support prop designed to hold plasterboard up on a ceiling. You may need a few of these as they save time and labour by not requiring the need to manually hold a board in place. Snips: A good pair of snips is required for trimming and cutting studs and other materials used within a partition wall or suspended ceiling frame. Drywall Plane: When cutting plasterboard or ceiling tiles you may find it leaves a rough edge to the board. A good drywall plane can then be run along the edge, providing a smooth finish. Staple Gun: A staple gun isn’t necessarily essential, but can be useful when applying beading and will make the process much faster than using a hammer and nails. Finishing Tools: After you’ve completed a plasterboard wall, you then of course have to finish it. This will involve taping and jointing the boards together and filling any imperfections with plaster or filler. Mixing Tub: A large, durable and easy-to-clean mixing tub is required for mixing any kind of adhesive or plaster for finishing. Trowel: A Trowel is an essential tool for finishing plasterboard. Trowels are useful for jointing adhesives, which can help to hide the fixings you use to fit the boards to the wall studs or ceiling. You might also use trowels for skimming the edges of boards and creating a smooth, seamless appearance. Skeleton Gun: Sealing and joining your boards, as well as adding any decorations, requires the use of a skeleton gun. A good quality gun will help to make sure that your boards are protected from issues like moisture - such as in a kitchen or bathroom. Seals also result in better-insulated rooms. In Summary This is a broad overview of the basic tools you will need to complete a dry lining project. There are of course multiple nuances to this, and a professional dry liner would have a more diverse range of tools to help make the job quicker.

Step 1: As a rule, each board should be positioned so that its edges are the centre of the uprights and noggins. However, at door openings and adjoining walls the plasterboard must fit tight up to the edges Step 2: Start from the door opening and work towards the furthest wall. When measuring for a cut board, do so from the edge of a stud to the centre of the noggin. With the board flat, use your tape measure as a rule to mark up Step 3: Take your spirit level or straight edge and place it on the marks. Score a line along the intended cut using your stanley knife, then stand the board up and give it a tap on the back to start the split Step 4: Fold the split edge back on itself, then cut down the remaining paper with your knife. You should end up with a nice clean edge. If your cut is slightly overlength, use a plaster rasp to trim the board to size Step 5: Offer the board up to the studwork, ensure it’s in the correct position. Drive a couple of screws into the edges of the board where you can see a noggin or upright – but only enough to hold the board in place Step 6: Take your spirit level or straight edge and mark lines down and across your board at the centre of the studs and noggins. This will help you to secure the plasterboard without missing the timber behind Step 7: Place screws at about 100-200mm gaps along the lines you drew in step 6. Drive them in just enough so they break the surface of the paper. Don’t go too far, as this will crush the plaster and prevent a secure fix Step 8: Your end boards are likely to need cutting to length. Measure from the furthest edge to the centre of the noggin to ensure a tight fit, then mark up, score and split the board as described in steps 2–3 Step 9: Fit the remaining boards as described in steps 5–7. When placing end boards, try to keep the factory edges together – this will minimise any need for filling in the next stage of the project Step 10: If a board extends into an opening, it’s best to cut it in situ. Use the studwork as a guide to make the horizontal saw cut, before scoring and splitting the board vertically. Finish edges with a surform.

Drywall is less labour-intensive and cheaper Conversely, wet plastering must be done by a professional over several days, with drying time needed between different coats. Even though the materials for both jobs are often roughly the same cost, the labour involved makes plastering a more expensive endeavour overall.

What is Dry Lining Insulation? Dry lining insulation is actually internal wall insulation. It is an effective way to reduce heat loss, and is very popular in homes in Britain, even new ones. It is fair to say that external wall insulation is still the gold standard. However, dry lining insulation, or interior insulation is a nice alternative. The difference in price is huge, with interior insulation costing half of the price of external insulation. And there are times when external insulation is just impossible. That includes in listed buildings, or where stone facing is present. Dry lining insulation provides an effective way to reduce heat loss, as well as to improve the internal environment, by keeping mould and moisture at bay. Internal insulation involves fixing a layer to the internal surface of external walls. This is usually done with a plasterboard finish. You must take care of the vapor control layer. When adding internal insulation, you must meet the very latest Building regulations and standards. Most buildings in the UK have a standard insulation thickness of 25mm. Currently, the minimum for internal insulation is 270mm. Some rooms and walls cannot accommodate insulation beyond a certain thickness. These examples include: stairways, smaller rooms, like the bathroom, corridors, and so on. However, that doesn’t mean you should skip insulation all together. It just means you need to insulate within the constraints.

What is Dot and Dab Plasterboard? Dot and Dab Plasterboard (Drylining) is the technique of attaching plasterboard to a wall using dots and dabs of adhesive at various points across a wall surface. This is used as a quick and effective way to plaster a wall and to cover uneven areas, without using wet plaster mixes, thus saving time waiting for plaster to dry out, it also means the walls can be decorated quickly and is considerably less messy.

Taping and jointing is a method that we employ for finishing dry lined walls, mostly in commercial settings as a quick and effective alternative to plastering. Most of the time, it's typically used on new partition walls, where the 'tape' will be used to bridge a gap.

Drywall screws are primarily used for attaching drywall panels to wooden or metal studs, providing a secure and solid connection. They are also suitable for other interior construction tasks, such as installing plasterboard, ceiling panels, and other wallboard materials.

Fire Rated Plasterboard What Is Fire Rated Plasterboard? Fire-rated plasterboard, popularly known as fireproof plasterboard, is a building material designed to resist or withstand fire. The panels are used for both ceilings and wall applications. These plasterboards stand out from others thanks to their improved fire-resistance qualities. Our GYPFOR fire plasterboard comes with a tapered edge and aerated core with glass fiber insulation material and other additives sandwiched in strong paper liners. This insulation sheet material is ideal for dry lining internal surfaces. The plasterboard’s fireproof performance is based on various building ‘elements’ such as wall partitions, ceilings, floors, and walls. Fire-rated plasterboard only forms a small part of the entire construction. Regardless of the ‘elements,’ plasterboard’s linings will always have screw fixings and metal studs, which are part of the ‘system’ of fireproof performance. It is, therefore, all these elements that make fireproof plasterboard. Plasterboard cannot be called fire-rated plasterboard per se. The fire resistance capability is always expressed in minutes, usually from 30 minutes to two hours (120mins). The minutes show the length of time fire plasterboard can withstand fire without breaking down. Fire-rated plasterboard are available in different thicknesses, usually ranging from 12.5mm and 15mm with tapered edge. If you need to partition walls that need a stronger barricade with fire protection, fire resistance plasterboard with 15mm thickness would be the best option. Benefits Fireproof plasterboard is designed with features that make it fire resistant and deliver optimal benefits to homeowners. Fire-rated plasterboard is environmentally friendly. It doesn’t use harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde. Can be used in a variety of applications such as walls, roofs, floors, and partitions. It is tough and durable. The sheets do not separate when exposed to profoundly warm steam. The fireproof sheets don’t burst into flames in a fire. The plasterboard is also termite safe. Impact-resistant. Apart from being fire-resistant, pink plasterboard is also impact resistant. Regular impacts won’t harm it. Sound resistant. They act as sound barriers, hence keeps your home quiet, thus comfortable.

Soundproof drywall panels use an inner layer consisting of gypsum, viscoelastic, and ceramics, which makes them much more resilient and less able to transmit sound waves.

Dry liners use plasterboard and panels to build internal walls, suspended ceilings and raised flooring in houses, offices and shops.

Dry lining is a form of cladding for internal walls, and sometimes ceilings, to prepare them for painting or covering (for example in wallpaper). Plasterboard is attached to create a smooth surface.

Gyproc is a type of plasterboard made by British Gypsum, they are both a part of the French parent company - Saint-Gobain. Many products made by British Gypsum within the Saint-Gobain company will carry the name Gyproc, which is another name they use for gypsum plasterboard.

Dry wall partition system is widely used in offices and residential buildings for its easiness of installation. Dry wall partition system is made of durable galvanized steel. Usually it uses gypsum boards as surface material. Compared with wooden board, Gypsum boards can provide a safer and fire-resistive wall.

Structural metal stud framing refers to the construction of walls and planes using cold-formed steel components. There are two main components of metal stud framing, a stud and a track. Heavier gauge metal studs are used in load bearing walls and structural applications such as exterior walls.

Dry-lining a wall means attaching plasterboard to a wall, which gives you a smooth finish to decorate straight away. It's much easier to get a good result this way than with wet plaster and it is easier alternative to re-plastering.

These beads provide the plasterer with the ability to produce true straight edges in drylining applications and give an excellent key for thin coat (skim) plastering. Fixing of all the products is simple and the beads give good resistance to cracking, chipping and impact damage on corners and edges.

Dry lining is a form of cladding for internal walls, and sometimes ceilings, to prepare them for painting or covering (for example in wallpaper). Plasterboard is attached to create a smooth surface.

Drywall Adhesive (otherwise known as Bonding Compound) is an essential component in the installation of both standard and insulated plasterboard. It serves to bond boards directly to the wall in a process known as "dot and dab". The dot and dab method serves as an efficient alternative to studs.

BS EN 520‘Gypsum plasterboards. Definitions, requirements and test methods’ BS 8212‘Code of practice for dry lining and partitioning using gypsum plasterboard’. Follow link to learn more. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/9-finishes/9-2-wall-and-ceiling-finishes/9-2-4-dry-lining/

The BS 476 standard has been used to determine fire performance of drylining systems for decades. In these tests, partitions are tested in a furnace rig which is generally no more than 3m in height. Maximum system heights are based on a 'cold-state', and are not tested at the heights they could be installed at on site.

As mentioned, dry lining can be used on internal walls and ceilings, including brick walls and uneven surfaces, plus on internal stud walls. Depending on the type of wall or surface the plasterboard is being fixed to, two standard thicknesses of plasterboard, 9.5mm and 12.5mm, can be used.

The benefits of dry lining Easy decoration. Plasterboard gives you a dry finish instantly, so you can paint or decorate it as you wish, immediately after the installation process. ... It's clean, quick and efficient. ... Guaranteed insulation. ... Easily conceals wires and pipes. ... Allows for easy renovation.

What is the difference between residential commercial and industrial? Basically, anywhere people live. These are by definition residences. Commercial buildings are workplaces, such as offices, stores, or other distinctive structures used in and for businesses or commerce. Industrial buildings are usually factory or warehouse buildings, where stuff is made or stored for industries.

Safety first Always wear safety goggles and a dust mask. Always wear gloves when handling these types of products. Always wear protective goggles and masks when cutting or sawing metal. Clear away all metal dust and small pieces before starting work again. How to prepare to dry-line a wall To make sure your plasterboard is straight when it's on the wall, you need to mark guidelines on the walls and ceiling to help you put the boards in the right place. Step 1 Start by measuring out the board widths, working away from the window opening. Then place an off-cut of plasterboard against the window reveal and measure a plasterboard width across. Allow an extra 10mm for the adhesive that'll fix the window sections to the reveal. Step 2 Using a laser level or spirit level, mark a vertical plumb line from the floor to the ceiling, extending the marks onto the ceiling and the floor. Step 3 Draw a vertical chalk line down the marked line. This will be your guideline for the first board. Carry on across the room, marking the board positions. Step 4 Mark a line across the top (which will be the finish line) allowing 12.5mm for the thickness of the board and 10-15mm for the adhesive. How to make difficult cuts when dry-lining a wall If you want to get a professional finish, it's important that you make neat cuts in the plasterboard to fit around obstacles like window sills. You'll need to do this before applying the adhesive. A plasterboard pad saw is an ideal tool for making difficult cuts as its pointed, narrow blade can easily cope with awkward shapes, and its coarse teeth go quickly through plasterboard. Step 1 Start by making a mark on the wall where the plasterboard sheet finishes. Then measure from that mark to the window sill, using a combination square and a tape measure. Make a note of these measurements. Step 2 Transfer your measurements to the plasterboard, adding a little extra so you've got enough room to position it. You can easily fill this extra space after you've fitted your plasterboard. Step 3 Cut out the shape using a plasterboard pad saw. Browse our selection of plasterboard to finish the job. How to fit the plasterboard when dry-lining a wall Plasterboard adhesive sets really quickly. It's a good idea to do just one area of your wall at a time. Mark on the wall where you want the dabs of adhesive to go before you start. There should be lines of dabs from the top to bottom of the wall, but don't bridge the joins between sheets of plasterboard with any of these. Top tip - Dry-lining a timber frame If your wall is very uneven or in poor condition, attach a framework of timber studs to it before dry-lining. Fix the plasterboard to the studs with nails rather than adhesive. You can also fit thermal insulation between the timber studs before putting up your plasterboard, and use sound-deadening plasterboard to make your wall soundproof. Top tip - Cutting holes for sockets First, run a marker pen around the rim of your socket mounting box. Then hold the plasterboard accurately in position against it to leave an outline. Make a pilot hole in each corner, turn the board around and join up the holes with a pencil. Finally, cut the square with a plasterboard pad saw. Step 1 Use a marker spray to mark the position of the adhesive dabs 400mm apart (or whatever the adhesive manufacturer's instructions advise). Then mix your plasterboard adhesive in a bucket. Step 2 Using a builder's float and pointing hawk, put dabs of adhesive on the walls. Step 3 Lift your plasterboard into place, in line with the chalk lines on the wall and ceiling. Step 4 Use a heavy batten to tap the board flat against the wall. A long piece of 50x100mm timber will be perfect to do this. Step 5 Check the board is perfectly vertical with a spirit level. Step 6 Make sure the board fits snugly against your ceiling. If it doesn't, lift it with a board lifter or a bolster and wood off-cuts. Do the same with your next sheet of plasterboard. How to fit a corner when dry-lining a wall It's a fact that walls and corners are rarely straight. If you want a neat fit you'll need to cut a plasterboard sheet to the shape of the wall. Measure the gap between the wall and the closest sheet of plasterboard. Then cut a sheet of plasterboard 250mm wider than the gap, and a small piece the same width as the gap. Step 1 Position the plasterboard sheet 200mm away from the corner. Next, place one end of the small piece against the corner at the top of the wall, and the other overlapping the plasterboard sheet. Then move this piece down to the floor, tracing the shape of the corner on the plasterboard. Step 2 Cut along the line and use a plasterboard rasp to neaten the edge. Want to get a neat look around a window? You'll need to cut pieces of plasterboard to fit the sides (reveals) and the top of your window. How to fit plasterboard in a window recess Step 1 First, measure the height and width of the window reveals. Then cut pieces of plasterboard to size and stick them in place with adhesive. Step 2 Use masking tape to temporarily hold the pieces in position. Step 3 Measure the width and depth at the top of the window reveal. Then cut a piece of plasterboard to size and stick it in place with adhesive. Step 4 Use timber supports between the plasterboard and window sill to hold the top piece of plasterboard in place while the adhesive dries. How to finish internal corners when dry-lining a wall To get a perfect finish along internal corners and the join with your ceiling, use a paper-faced metal angle bead stuck in place with a jointing compound. A steel-bladed internal corner trowel will help you give the compound a smooth finish. Step 1 Start by measuring the height of your wall. Cut the angle bead 12.5mm shorter than the wall height with tinsnips, cutting first from one side to the other. Step 2 Mix the jointing compound in a bucket and spread it on the corner with a filling knife, covering just beyond where the angle bead will fit. Step 3 Press the angle bead into position in the corner. Step 4 Cover with a top coat of jointing compound and smooth with an internal corner trowel. How to finish along the ceiling when dry-lining a wall You can finish the joins between your plasterboard walls and ceiling in the same way as your internal corners. Make sure to stand on a stable stepladder to reach the ceiling. Step 1 Start by measuring along the top of the wall. Then cut a paper-faced metal angle bead to fit, and stick it in place with jointing compound. Step 2 Cover the bead with a top coat of jointing compound and smooth it with an internal corner trowel. How to smooth the joints when dry-lining a wall For a smooth finish, plasterboard should be plastered. But this is a skilled job that's best left to a professional. However, you can still give your plasterboard joints a decent finish yourself with jointing compound and jointing tape. When all the joints are dry, fill the join, the next wall and any other gaps with filler. Then all you'll need to do is apply a drywall primer to the surface and you're ready to decorate. Step 1 Mix the jointing compound in a bucket and smooth it down or along the joint with a filling knife or scraper. Step 2 Cut a piece of jointing tape the length of the joint with scissors, and press the tape in place. Step 3 Use the blade of a coating knife to press jointing compound along the taped join, flush with the surface of the tape. Quickly smooth the surface and feather the edges of the compound with a clean damp sponge. Make sure you keep rinsing the sponge and wringing it thoroughly as too much moisture will weaken the joint. Step 4 Leave the compound to dry. Then sand any bumps very lightly with a sanding block if you need to. How to finish external corners when dry-lining a wall You can use a paper-faced metal angle bead to make sure you get a strong join at an external corner. And an external corner trowel will give you a crisp angle to the jointing compound. Step 1 First, measure the width and height of the corner and cut the angle bead to fit. Put jointing compound on the corner and stick the bead in place. Step 2 Cover the corner with a top coat of jointing compound and smooth it down with external corner trowel.

Reduce noise pollution with the simplest of efforts by installing soundproof plasterboard. Sometimes called acoustic plasterboards, or noise-reducing plasterboards, soundproof plasterboard prevents sound energy from travelling between rooms. As the boards are a lot denser than standard plasterboard, the sound gets trapped within the board as it passes through.

Taping and jointing involves covering and reinforcing the seams between sheets of plasterboard on a wall or ceiling. This method is used to prepare a wall for decoration and is an alternative to skim coating, where the entire surface of the plasterboard is covered with a thin layer of plaster.

Dryliners create walls and rooms in buildings. They use plasterboard to hide pipes and wires, make space for insulation and smooth out uneven surfaces. They can build suspended ceilings, raised floors, and provide specialist soundproofing.

Residential projects involve the construction of houses, apartment buildings, and even larger multistory high rise buildings.

Suspended ceilings are a type of finish in which the ceiling is hung from the ceiling structure of your building. It can be suspended from the actual roof, or a ceiling deck consisting of structural framing joints. Most suspended ceilings consist of mineral fibre acoustic tiles and a steel grid system.

Interior lining(s) means material(s) that (together) constitute(s) the surface finish and substrate of a roof, wall or floor.

The shortened form of “metal frame plasterboard” or just “metal frame” ceilings, MF ceiling systems are suspended metal frame ceilings installed below the main structural ceiling of interior spaces. This is achieved by using a series of wires or hanger angles.

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